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職業(yè)裝減少接縫起皺現(xiàn)象需要在制作中注意什么?

來(lái)源:http://www.ruitao288.cn 日期:2023-11-23 發(fā)布人:      

當(dāng)使用合成縫紉線(xiàn)時(shí),必須小心確定縫線(xiàn)的張力,應(yīng)使張力調(diào)整到低。底線(xiàn)張力必須調(diào)整到:當(dāng)縫線(xiàn)自由移動(dòng)的末端拉起時(shí),底線(xiàn)梭心軸及外套慢慢向下滑動(dòng),面線(xiàn)與底線(xiàn)的張力必須保持一致,使它們恰好在兩層布料之間交織。

When using synthetic sewing thread, care must be taken to determine the tension of the thread and adjust it to a low level. The tension of the bottom thread must be adjusted to: when the free moving end of the sewing thread is pulled up, the bottom thread spindle and outer sleeve slowly slide downwards, and the tension of the top thread and bottom thread must be consistent, so that they are intertwined between the two layers of fabric.

合成縫紉線(xiàn)縫入布料的張力太大,將會(huì)自動(dòng)收縮以緩和這種張力,這種現(xiàn)象將使沿著接縫的布身收縮,進(jìn)而使接縫起皺。

The tension of the synthetic sewing thread sewn into the fabric is too high, and it will automatically shrink to alleviate this tension. This phenomenon will cause the fabric body along the seam to shrink, causing the seam to wrinkle.

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當(dāng)縫紉的方向與這些布料的經(jīng)向方向平行時(shí),嵌入的縫線(xiàn)會(huì)將經(jīng)紗迫離原位,因每針縫線(xiàn)都將經(jīng)紗推開(kāi),經(jīng)過(guò)多針?lè)e累所產(chǎn)生的偏差將沿著接縫的布身收縮從而導(dǎo)致車(chē)縫起皺,當(dāng)縫紉的方向與這些布料的緯向方向平行時(shí),通常較少起皺。

When the sewing direction is parallel to the warp direction of these fabrics, the embedded thread will force the warp yarn away from its original position. As each stitch pushes the warp yarn apart, the deviation generated by the accumulation of multiple stitches will shrink along the fabric body of the seam, resulting in wrinkling of the sewing seam. When the sewing direction is parallel to the weft direction of these fabrics, there is usually less wrinkling.

而根據(jù)經(jīng)驗(yàn)顯示,在對(duì)角中斜向的接縫則不會(huì)起皺,大多數(shù)布料,只要使接縫處于經(jīng)度或緯度的斜角15度方向,就足以避免起皺。因此,可考慮使用斜裁方式作業(yè)。必要時(shí),可在布料上涂抹平滑劑。

According to experience, diagonal seams in diagonals do not wrinkle, and for most fabrics, keeping the seam at a 15 degree angle of longitude or latitude is sufficient to avoid wrinkling. Therefore, oblique cutting method can be considered for operation. If necessary, a smoothing agent can be applied to the fabric.

近年來(lái),隨著服裝面料的市場(chǎng)需求不斷地多樣化、差異化,各種新型的紡紗技術(shù)相繼出現(xiàn),比如賽絡(luò)紡紡紗、索羅紡紡紗、賽絡(luò)菲爾紡紗、緊密紡紡紗等,這些新型的紡紗技術(shù)有一個(gè)共同的特點(diǎn),都是通過(guò)對(duì)細(xì)紗機(jī)作適當(dāng)?shù)母脑靵?lái)達(dá)到各自的目的?,F(xiàn)在業(yè)內(nèi)討論為熱烈的“半精紡”則完全不同,它是棉紡設(shè)備和毛紡設(shè)備的一種有機(jī)結(jié)合,是一種創(chuàng)新的紡紗工藝?!鞍刖彙奔徏喆蟮奶攸c(diǎn)是對(duì)加工原料的適應(yīng)性強(qiáng),可以把毛、棉、絲、麻及各種化學(xué)纖維以任意配比進(jìn)行混紡。利用“半精紡”紡紗工藝開(kāi)發(fā)的多種纖維混紡面料,產(chǎn)品新穎獨(dú)特,使產(chǎn)品結(jié)構(gòu)變得異常豐富,順應(yīng)了市場(chǎng)需求和毛紡技術(shù)的發(fā)展潮流。

In recent years, with the continuous diversification and differentiation of market demand for clothing fabrics, various new spinning technologies have emerged one after another, such as Siro spinning, Solo spinning, Sirofil spinning, compact spinning, etc. These new spinning technologies have a common feature, which is achieved through appropriate modifications to the spinning machine to achieve their respective goals. The currently hotly discussed "semi worsted" in the industry is completely different. It is an organic combination of cotton and wool spinning equipment, and an innovative spinning process. The characteristic of "semi worsted" spinning is its strong adaptability to processing raw materials, which can blend wool, cotton, silk, hemp, and various chemical fibers in any ratio. The various fiber blended fabrics developed using the "semi worsted" spinning process are novel and unique, making the product structure exceptionally rich, in line with market demand and the development trend of wool spinning technology.

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